Gliffaes – Crickhowell, Powys

Gorgeous Gliffaes. Standing above the River Usk and crowned by two quirky campaniles, the house was built in the 1880s in Italianate style. There are lovely grounds and, for fishermen, five salmon and trout beats along the river. For the last 70 years it has been in the same family, and Susie and James Suter have run it with hands-on dedication for more than 20 years. Sitting on the wide stone terrace with nothing but the sound of birdsong and the rushing river is pretty unbeatable – it’s hard to imagine a more peaceful hotel. For peace to really take hold a hotel has to be loved by its owners and be genuine, unpretentious and satisfying for its guests. Gliffaes ticks both boxes. There are 23 bedrooms, four of which have superlative views over the river and the sky-high hill that shoots up beyond it. With country house fabrics and comfortable bathrooms, the rooms are traditional and pretty. There are copious afternoon teas, James Suter’s knockout martinis and, in the dining room, satisfying dishes that hit the spot. A gem.

Doubles from £159

+44 (0)1874 730371; gliffaeshotel.com