This is the first of Edmund and Charlie Inkin’s three wonderfully unpretentious and enjoyable establishments. Set amid magnificent scenery between the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons, the plain but pleasing old inn has become a sanctuary for food lovers, walkers and bookish visitors to nearby Hay-on-Wye, famed for its lit fests. They love the honest simplicity, the warmth of welcome, colour and comfort, both in ground floor rooms whose names say it all – Library, Tack Room, Aga Room – and in bedrooms where the beds and linens are second to none. Curl up here with one of the books that lie around the building, listen to your Roberts radio or simply gaze out at the hills. You feel truly as though enveloped in a big embrace here and after a surprisingly refined dinner, based on the Welsh larder, you’ll head for bed with an equally big smile on your face.
Canoe the Wye with Wye Valley Canoe. Board in nearby Glasbury and be picked up downstream in Hay.
The charcuterie boards in the afternoon at The Griffin – the salamis and cured meats are from Trealy Farm in nearby Monmouthshire.
Leather, wool and textile goodies from Great English Outdoors in Hay on Wye.