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The Gurnard’s Head – Zennor, Cornwall

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The Gurnard’s Head – Zennor, Cornwall

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‘The simple things in life done well,’ say brothers Edmund and Charlie Inkin about their three delightful hostelries: The Gurnard’s Head and The Old Coastguard here in Cornwall, and The Felin Fach Griffin in Wales. Nothing could be closer to the truth, or more perfectly exemplified than at this sunshine-yellow dining pub with rooms, its name writ large on its tiled roof. Set in the wild landscape of Cornwall’s Atlantic coast, it’s an unpretentious haven. In the brightly painted bedrooms, you’ll find luxurious beds, jam jars filled with fresh flowers and Roberts radios but no TVs. Or phones, despite the fact that mobile signals don’t have so much as a nodding acquaintance with the skies in these parts. But panic at being cut off quickly gives way to a sense of peace and satisfaction, reinforced by head chef Max Wilson’s divine local and seasonal menu, changing daily according to what’s brought to the back door. Doubles from £120.


Name to Know: Josh Spencer, number two at The Gurnard’s Head, who previously worked at sister inn, The Felin Fach Griffin. Ask him about his love of Greek wines.

See: Tremenheere Sculpture Garden near Penzance has been grown from a bare hillside into a special home for innovative sculptures and rare plants.

Eat: Stay for lunch at The Gurnard’s and gobble up crab macaroni, a speciality of head chef, Max Wilson. The menu is supposed to be ever changing, but this dish is difficult to remove.

Buy: A painting from the walls of The Gurnard’s. They hang the work of well-known local artists, a properly curated collection at very reasonable prices.

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