Unusual accessories took centre stage at the S/S’17 show from London to Paris. From fencing to crocs and nostalgic petal swim caps, here are the five most unlikely trends to come out of this seasons show.
At Christopher Kane, the ultimate anti fashion footwear, Crocs, were reinvented and recontextualised within the realm of fashion. The crocs were paired with a recollection from the Christopher Kane archive of his 10 year career. From body skimming lace mini dresses to multi coloured lurex and touch embroidery, the clothes make even the crocs seem fashionable.
Going back to go forwards, collecting and modifying what she wears, combining refined items with humble objects and practicing a kind of alchemy through clothing.
Chanel had the most unexpected of accessories in the form of a sideways cap, paired with a side pony tail by Sam McKnight. The collection was progressively young and relevant for our current times with looks that are sure to be big hits on Instagram and Snapchat. The luxe cap is sure to be on every fashion Instagram account from here to timbuktu.
The rest of the collection however featured lingerie inspired dressed and skirts, with lacy slip poking out under the classic tweed skirts, and luxe reincarnations of the ever present bomber jackets of last season. Karl Lagerfeld said the collection was centred on a ‘fluid femininity in a sporty world.’ So much so there were even hoodies in this exceedingly modern collection.
As has been the case, jackets worn backwards seem to be sticking around for S/S’ 17. Chanel turned their classic boucle jackets around to modernise the look.
Leggings, the most unflattering of all items, made a return to the Balenciaga show, where Demna Gvasalia showed his second womenswear ready-to-wear collection (the first of which was one of the most influential debuts). Spandex leggings stretched over simple pumps to create an almost alien slipperiness. Definitely one of the more problematic trends for S/S’17, but there’s no doubt they will be everywhere, just as that red puffa anorak is now.
Miu Miu sent models down the catwalk in fifties petal swim caps. Not your average look for walking down the street. The look was teamed with swimwear inspired looks, fifties influences and perfect house dresses. The collection was an ironic retrospective of the fifties, with looks you could expect on likes of Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot and Grace Kelly. If you are off to the French Rivera next spring, maybe leave the swim cap at home though…
Christian Dior entered a new stage with its first ever female creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and the look was decidedly inspired by the unlikely historic pastime of fencing. Fencing inspired jackets and breeches opened the show, with a series of models sporting the uniform, while others mixed the jackets with long embroidered skirts. Grazia Chiuri described the inspiration of the collection as:
Fencing is a discipline in which the balance between thought and action, the harmony between mind and heart are essential. The uniform of the female fencer is, with the exception of some special protections, the same as for a male fencer. The female body adapts itself to an outfit which, in turn, seems to have been shaped to its curves.” Therefore fashion needs to correspond to the women of today, who have been freed from the stereotypical categories of “masculine/feminine”, “young/not so young”, “reason/emotion.