Grace Fodor of Studio 10 tells Lucy Cleland how to streamline your make-up regime and gives some fabulous tricks of the professional trade
[ezcol_1third][/ezcol_1third] [ezcol_2third_end]So, I’m nearly 40 and still don’t know how to apply make-up effectively. What are the key secrets?
Not necessarily a secret, but prepping the skin is vital for applying make-up effectively. Always start with a moisturiser and it’s good to use a primer. It gives the perfect base for concealer and foundation to blend seamlessly, and keeps your makeup in place.
Colour correctors aren’t widely talked about but they can make a huge difference to evening the skin tone. Use them to correct dark circles, blemishes and discoloration in the skin and you’ll need far less coverage of concealer or foundation.
You can’t blend or buff enough! It’s the way to make sure your make-up looks ultra-natural and it’s worked well into the skin. You want to avoid any visible or harsh lines, not wanting your make-up to look as though it’s sitting on top as a separate layer or mask.
Often overlooked, cream products tend to be much more flattering and youthful than powder, giving the skin a dewy ‘lit from within’ appearance. They also help to avoid the heavy and ‘cakey’ effect which is so ageing.
When you have perfectly shaped brows, you look ‘put together’ even without any make-up. Groomed brows shape the face, create balance, and add definition to the eyes. They’re also a quick-fix eyelift – without any surgery![/ezcol_2third_end]
Talk me through my beauty routine. Once I’ve washed and moisturised, where do I start and where do I end?
Always begin by applying SPF. UVB and especially UVA protection is so important – 80 per cent of hyperpigmentation, or age spots as they’re commonly called, is caused by sun damage. Apply a primer as it creates the ‘canvas’ for your make-up and acts as a barrier between makeup and your skin. It also helps your makeup to stay put all day.
At the end of the day, once you’ve cleansed, a good night cream is essential. Sleep is a time for our skin to repair and rejuvenate itself. In fact, research shows that skin cell regeneration almost doubles at night, therefore a good night cream supports your skin’s natural repair process.
I use Cult 51 night cream, in terms of high performance anti-ageing skincare it wins hands down. It’s an all in one and has completely transformed the appearance of my skin.
My make-up bag is a sticky morass of dried up mascaras, pots of silly coloured eyeshades, dried out lipsticks and irrelevant blushers and bronzers. Streamline me, please!
Me too – until I developed Studio 10, which is underpinned with the rationale ‘why have five products when you can have one?’ Multi-purpose, multi-function became our mantra. The first must-haves are concealers and colour correctors to even the skin tone, cover blemishes and create a flawless base. You can often get away without foundation if you target and correct these areas properly.
Our Age Defy Skin Perfector has a primer for fine lines and enlarged pores, essential colour correctors to cancel redness or dark under eye circles and two concealer shades for the perfect colour match. This leads to the next stage of adding definition, shape and structure to the face (especially as we age we lose definition). Invest in a good lip and brow pencil; defining the brows completely transforms and frames your face. Using a lipliner doesn’t just stop bleeding and make your lipstick last longer – it adds shape and fullness to the lips. And lastly, have a good contouring product to add ‘structure’ the face.
And lastly, a complexion pick-me-up! An injection of colour instantly lifts and brightens the skin for a youthful glow. In the summer I use bronzer with a little shimmer for that sun kissed glow, but in the winter months I change this for a peach-based blush.
Eyes or lips? Which should I focus on?
Both; eyes and lips show the telltale signs of ageing, so you need to add definition in both areas – and that includes brows! I recommend mascara and a little eyeliner, but avoid black is it’s too heavy and harsh, and on lips, I like to re-shape with a lipliner.
I love our Age Reverse Perfecting Lip Pencil as it’s uniquely ‘lip coloured’ so it doesn’t look like you’re wearing any makeup, and has a ‘flesh’ colour liner on the other end to highlight the cupid’s bow for a plumping, full lip effect.
How can I really successfully look less tired than I do?
When we are tired it’s our skin that suffers the most becoming dull and lifeless. Using an illuminator adds radiance to the skin and gives the features an instant lift. For a more natural and flattering finish on the skin, avoid highlighters that are too white or silver based, and go for a highlighter with a gold undertone, as its warmer. And avoid products that have too much glitter, instead sticking to a soft pearl or shimmer finish.
What’s an instant skin brightening tip?
A peach blush with a warm gold undertone is my absolute must-have for brightening and warming up the complexion. Stick to a liquid/water based formula for a dewy, natural-skin finish. My pro-trick is not to just use it on cheeks, but also add a light wash to the centre of the nose, chin, forehead and eyelids. Peach is a girl’s best friend.
And brushes – what do I need for what? I have about 20 I never use!
You don’t need tons of brushes; the essentials are a foundation brush for a flawless complexion, a concealer brush to hide imperfections and a cheek brush to add colour to the face. When doing your eyes you tend to need more than one brush but keeping it simple, a shadow brush for all over colour, then a defining brush to add shape and depth. We have five double-ended brushes that are everything you need, and don’t clog up your make-up bag!
How do I achieve January’s ‘no make-up make-up look’?
The idea is to wear make-up that is undetectable; so that people are complimenting you on how well you look rather than how well you’ve done your make-up. Add structure, definition and warmth without adding obvious colour. Rather than wearing a full face of foundation, try and target imperfections with concealer and colour correctors as this keeps the skin looking natural. Wear a crème blush that is as close to the colour you would naturally flush and apply sparingly. It’s important to still add definition to the eyes, lips and brows but stick to neutral shades.
Which make-up myths can you shoot down with a well-sharpened eyebrow pencil?
The myth that the best natural finish is created with brow powder. You can achieve full natural looking brows with a good brow pencil. Make sure you get the correct colour – look for dull ashy tones, as they tend to work best on the brow.
If there are three products I should save if my make-up bag is burning, what are they?
1. Concealer: a ‘makeup must-have’ as it is a quick fix for hiding dark circles, blemishes or discoloration. 2. Brow pencil: brows can be the missing piece of a puzzle. They frame your entire face, add definition and can completely transform any look. 3. Lip & cheek stain – as we age we lose pigment in our skin, so using a lip and cheek stain will give a healthy, youthful flush.
To colour or not to colour? Is it time to ditch pop colours past 40?
No, not at all – colour can be gorgeous at any age. It’s great for over 40s but it’s more about using a pop colour as an ‘accent’ whether it be on the eyes or lips. Deep, rich bold pigments rather than neon!
Make-up artists are always banging on about contouring – what is it and how can I do it?
Contouring is about creating light and shadow to accentuate features, define and remodel the face and features. The basic theory is to use a darker shade on areas you want to recede and absorb light, and a highlighter to lift and bring features forward. My biggest tip is not to use a bronzer – so many women try contouring with a bronzer and it doesn’t look natural. Bronzers add warmth to the face whereas natural shadows are dull and ashy toned in comparison.
Use a matte contouring powder and follow your facial architecture, effectively you’re creating natural shadows on the skin – underneath the cheekbones, jawline and the sides of the forehead. You need to be precise, but the key is to follow the natural bone structure and blend really well as you don’t want to leave any harsh lines. Add highlighter to where your face catches the light – the top of the cheekbones, forehead, bridge of the nose, chin and cupid’s bow. Avoid glitter or high shimmer products, as they can be ‘strobey’ and a gold undertone is warmer and flattering. Then use the same principles to contour the nose, eyes, brows, lips and neck. where needed. You can even contour the legs too!
Always finish off with a touch of blusher. I like to use a fresh pink tone to add a youthful flush. Apply to the apple of the cheeks and blend a little along the cheekbones.
There’s so much on the market, what makes Studio 10 products that little bit different?
Studio 10 is an innovative range of age correcting, skin perfecting and anti-ageing make-up essentials, problem solvers and professional fixes giving women the ability ‘to look younger’ as part of their daily routine. I’d reached a point in my life where I was looking for a make-up range designed for women as they age and needed more than products with just added anti-ageing ingredients. I need products that did a job of work for me –Spanx for the face! Developed with dermatologists, it combines hi-performance products, enriched with advanced skincare ingredients, and the aesthetics of make-up to disguise, correct and cover the signs of ageing.
Should I ever succumb to the needle or the knife if things get desperate?
Yes and no, it depends. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with surgery, and it can be very positive. I think we should respect any woman’s choice whether she wants to have surgery, or indeed if she chooses not to. But I do feel that surgery is not right or the answer for everyone; it’s completely personal. My only worry though is when it becomes almost extreme; goes beyond enhancing and is completely distorting.
If I had a teenage daughter, what words of beauty wisdom can I impart to her?
I have three daughters and one is almost 16. One would to chat around the concept of beauty, and never allowing her to be defined by someone else’s definition or stereotype of beauty. And on the practical side, it would to have a good skincare regime. Using ultra-gentle products, proper cleansing, moisturising and SPF. You can never be too young to use protection.