Copenhagen has fabulous food and design at its coolly beating heart, says Lucy Cleland
Copenhagen Travel Guide 2018
Those lucky Danes, apart from the weather (although when you’ve got sartorial layering down to a tee, what do you care) and the taxes, Copenhagen is a right-on city which intends to be carbon-neutral by 2025, with fabulous food and design at its coolly beating heart. The short hop from London and 15-minute train journey straight into the centre of town mean you can be sitting down to a seven-course tasting menu at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl in the beautiful Botanical Gardens, eyeing up the well-groomed Danes, even if you had to put in a full day at the office.
Just new to the hotel scene, which is oddly lacking in wowsy addresses, is Hotel Sanders, the 104-room place from the dishy, former prima ballerina, Alexander Kølpin. It’s the antithesis to the glitzy, old-money Hotel d’Angleterre and appeals to the inconspicuously wealthy who love a Soho House-type vibe.
At the other end of the spectrum, you could easily hole up for a couple of nights in the Andersen, just a five-minute walk from the station in Vesterbro, the trendy Meatpacking District (with its sex shops and fruitily named bars, you’re in no doubt that this was the former red light district); it’s no frills, but clean, quiet and comfortable with a free wine hour every evening.
Whatever you do, jump on a bike (electric, if you don’t fancy the workout); it must be one of the safest cycling cities in the world and you really are king of the road. Plus, you can visit all the places you need to get to in 48 hours with ease, from the selfie opportunity with the Little Mermaid perched on the water’s edge (smaller than you think but should be on your ticklist) to the second-oldest operating amusement park in the world, Tivoli Gardens for some retro thrills and spills.
Hotel Sanders is three townhouses converted into one elegant gem of a hotel not far from picture-postcard Nyhavn. The atmosphere inside is warm and calm; the design a mix of Danish and Asian with rattan, bamboo, wood and earthy textures and colours. This hotel will be the hippest address in the city. Rooms from £200. hotelsanders.com
The Design Museum is a triumph of Scandi cool – its shop and café are worth it alone (designmuseum.dk/en). For an out of town trip, take a train to Kronborg Castle to visit Hamlet’s mythical Elsinore. kongeligeslotte.dk
From the street food market on Paper Island (every stall offers something mouthwatering) to a blow out at René Redzepi’s recently reopened Noma or Mielcke & Hurtigkarl, where every beautiful dish is inspired by some element of the restaurant’s Botanical Garden location, you won’t put a foodie step wrong. mhcph.com
Ganni knits from the outlet store on Christianshavn, Georg Jensen Torun bangles and if you really get into the whole biking thing, look up Jens Martin Skibsted’s company Biomega for the sleekest in bike and accessory design biomega.com